Park on level ground and disconnect the battery's negative terminal.

Jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on stands. Remove the inner guard (fender) liner on the driver's side. It comes out for every snorkel install.

Mask the guard, A-pillar and bonnet edge around the snorkel area to protect the paint while you mark, drill and cut.

Unroll your template. It's rolled up inside the stainless pipe. Check the label in the corner shows your vehicle and snorkel size (e.g. LC200 4.5" DS) before you go any further.

Trim along the two edge of guard lines. Then cut out the hole along the solid black line, but leave the strip between the dashed lines. It holds the template together.

Line up the top trimmed edge with the gap between the bonnet and guard, and the side edge with the gap between the door and guard.

Hold it in place with magnets while you line it up (we recommend them). No magnets? Masking tape works too. Keep it flat and don't stretch it.

Trace around the inside of the hole with a fine marker.

Remove the template and join up the line across the gap left by the strip.

Drill a few holes just inside the marked line. They give the saw blade somewhere to start.

Cut along the marked line with an air saw. Stay just inside the line and file back to it if needed.

Clean away all metal filings. They rust on paint quickly.

Paint the bare metal edge with touch-up paint. No paint on hand? Spray the edge with lanolin instead.

Press the 800 mm thick pinch weld all the way around the cut edge of the outer guard. It seals the hole and protects the snorkel. The 500 mm thick pinch weld is for the inner guard later.

Fix the A-pillar bracket to the snorkel with two M5 bolts (3 mm Allen key).

The side of the bracket with three holes must face the same way as the snorkel's entry into the guard.

Fit it with the CANNA FAB logo facing out so it reads the right way: three bolts go to the car and two to the snorkel.

Feed the snorkel into the guard hole. Line up the top of the bracket with the pinch weld (door seal flange) on the A-pillar.

Set the bracket as far back and down as you can, but make sure the door still opens and closes freely. Then trace around the bracket onto the pillar.

Remove the snorkel and unbolt the bracket. Hold the bracket inside your traced outline and mark the centre of each of the three slots.

Double-check the spacing: 50 mm between holes, 100 mm end to end.

Drill a 9 mm hole at each mark. Touch up the bare metal.

Put a dab of weather-rated Sikaflex or marine silicone in each hole. It stops water leaking into the pillar.

Set the M6 rivnuts from the bolt bag with a rivnut tool, then bolt the bracket to the pillar with the M6 bolts (4 mm Allen key).

Lift the bonnet and unplug the MAF (air flow) sensor.

Undo the bolts and wire clips holding the airbox, then lift it out for access. You'll refit it shortly.

From inside the engine bay, cut a hole through the inner guard for the intake. Use a hole saw one size up from the silicone hose (a 4" hose takes a 4.5" hole saw).

Paint the bare edge, then fit the 500 mm thick pinch weld.

Refit the airbox and plug the MAF sensor back in.

4.5" snorkel: 90° silicone bend, 100 mm stainless pipe and 100 mm straight silicone. 5" snorkel: the pre-cut 90° bend only. Put a hose clamp on every joint.

Dry-fit everything first, then tighten the clamps.

Fit the snorkel back through the guard and bolt it to the bracket with the two M5 bolts.

Tighten every hose clamp. Refit the inner guard liner, trimming it if it touches the plumbing.

Peel off the masking tape, lower the vehicle and reconnect the battery. Start the engine and check there are no warning lights.