Everything you need to fit your CannaFab snorkel, step by step. Tick things off as you go. Your progress is saved on this device.
Want it done for you? Book a professional fitting or find a recommended fitter. See our installation policy for warranty cover.
Lay everything out and tick it off before you pick up a tool. Anything missing? Contact us before you start cutting.
3 mm and 4 mm Allen keys, an M6 rivnut tool and a 9 mm drill bit for the rivnut holes. From $50.
Get the tool kit
Drillwith a 7 mm bit for the M5 rivnuts (we can supply one). Twin kits also need 9 mm and 11 mm bits
Air sawor body saw
Rivnut toolM5, for the snorkel rivnuts. Twin kits also need M6 and M8 rivnut tools
Allen keys3 mm and 4 mm
Flat screwdriverfor hose clamps
Fine marker
Masking tape
You'll also need: a few magnets to hold the template (masking tape works too), weather-rated Sikaflex or marine silicone, blue Loctite for the adapter bolts, and touch-up paint (or lanolin spray). A file and a second pair of hands help too.
It's packed in the box with the snorkel. Before you start, check the label shows your vehicle and snorkel size. Wrong, lost or damaged? Email us and we'll send a replacement.
Your outlet adapter is sent separately. Bolt it onto the snorkel before you start the install.
Make sure you have the correct adapter for your car: the LC70-P-ADP (pre-facelift, MY07–23).
Place the snorkel on a flat surface. Put the 5" EC seal between the adapter and the snorkel, then bolt the adapter on with the M5×20 bolts. Put blue Loctite on each bolt.
Park on level ground and disconnect the battery's negative terminal.
You don't need to remove the inner guard liner on the LandCruiser 70.
Remove the factory plastic snorkel before you tape up the guard.
Keep all the factory hardware: the bolts and the grommets. The new snorkel reuses them, and bolts to the factory top and bottom mounting holes.
The factory plastic snorkel's grommet gets reused in the new bottom bracket: the rubber and its centre pin.
To remove it, push the centre metal pin out, then pull the rubber off. Keep both.
Mask the guard, A-pillar and bonnet edge around the snorkel area to protect the paint while you mark, drill and cut.
Unroll your template. It's packed in the box with the snorkel. Check the label in the corner shows your vehicle and snorkel size (e.g. LC70-P 5" DS) before you go any further.
Trim along the two edge of guard lines. Then cut out the hole along the solid black line, but leave the strip between the dashed lines. It holds the template together.
Line up the top trimmed edge with the gap between the bonnet and guard, and the side edge with the gap between the door and guard.
Hold it in place with magnets along its whole length while you line it up (we recommend them). No magnets? Masking tape works too. Keep it flat and don't stretch it.
Trace around the inside of the hole with a fine marker.
Remove the template and join up the line across the gap left by the strip.
Drill a few holes just inside the marked line. They give the saw blade somewhere to start.
Cut along the marked line with an air saw. It's a long cut, so take it steady and support the panel as you go.
Clean away all metal filings. They rust on paint quickly.
Paint the bare metal edge with touch-up paint. No paint on hand? Spray the edge with lanolin instead.
Press the 1800 mm thick pinch weld all the way around the cut edge of the guard. It seals the hole and protects the snorkel.
There's no inner guard cutting on the LandCruiser 70: press the 600 mm thin pinch weld around the existing opening in the inner guard.
Push the saved grommet rubber into the slot in the snorkel's bottom bracket, then push the pin back into the rubber.
The top bracket (LC70-TOP) has two big holes and two small holes. The big holes go to the car, the small holes go to the snorkel. The small-hole (M5) end faces down, towards the ground.
Bolt the big holes to the factory top mounting holes on the A-pillar with the factory bolts. Leave them slightly loose for now.
Put a dab of weather-rated Sikaflex or marine silicone on the threads so water can't get into the pillar.
Only do this after the cut-out is finished. Sit the snorkel in the guard with the bottom bracket's rubber over the factory bottom mounting hole. Put the factory bolt through the pin, finger tight, to hold it.
Mark the snorkel at the centre of each of the top bracket's two small slots.
Take the snorkel off, drill the two marks with a 7 mm bit and set the two M5 rivnuts in the snorkel with a rivnut tool.
Fit the snorkel through the guard. Put the factory bolt through the pin in the bottom bracket's grommet and into the factory bottom mounting hole.
Bolt the top bracket's small holes to the snorkel rivnuts with the M5×15 bolts and washers.
Check the snorkel sits straight, then tighten the bottom bolt, the top bracket's factory bolts and the M5 bolts.
Unplug the MAF (air flow) sensor, then undo the bolts and wire clips holding the airbox and lift it out. You need the room to get the silicone onto the adapter.
With the airbox out, push the 100 mm straight silicone onto the outlet adapter and clamp it. Keeping the factory airbox? Fit the 4"–3.5" reducer at the airbox end.
Refit the airbox and plug the MAF sensor back in, then join the silicone to the airbox inlet with the second hose clamp.
Dry-fit everything first, then tighten the clamps.
100 mm straight silicone
2 × hose clamps
Tighten every hose clamp.
Peel off the masking tape and reconnect the battery. Start the engine and check there are no warning lights.
The passenger-side snorkel is for looks. It isn't connected to the air intake, so there's no plumbing on this side.
You'll need your second template and the LC70 passenger kit: the M8 rivnut and bolt for the bottom bracket, and the M6 rivnuts and bolts for the top bracket. The bottom bracket reuses one of the factory grommets (rubber and pin).
The passenger side has no factory mounting holes, so copy them from the driver's side.
On the driver's side, measure from the bottom of the A-pillar to the centre of the first bracket hole. Keep the tape measure lined up with the chrome trim the whole way so the line stays straight.
Transfer the same measurement to the passenger side and mark it.
Cut the hole first, the same way as the driver's side: steps 6–11. Check the template label before you start.
Before you cut, check the snorkels will sit level with each other when you look from the front.
Sit the snorkel in the hole and mark the M8 rivnut hole through the bottom bracket.
Drill it with an 11 mm bit and set the M8 rivnut with an M8 rivnut tool.
Fit the factory grommet (rubber and pin) in the bracket and bolt through it into the rivnut with the passenger kit bolt.
Drill the top bracket's M6 holes in the A-pillar with a 9 mm bit. Put sealant in each hole, set the M6 rivnuts and bolt the bracket on.
Then mark and fit the M5 rivnuts in the snorkel, as in step 14, and bolt the snorkel to the top bracket.
Unbolt the factory antenna and refit it inside the guard, mounted horizontally. Or run the aerial cable into the cab and fit an external antenna.
Stand in front of the vehicle and check both snorkels sit level with each other. Then tighten every bolt.
Talk to the people who built it. Call 0478 594 451 (Mon–Fri, 9am–3pm) or email info@cannafab.com.au. Include a photo and your order number and we'll help you sort it.
This guide covers: Toyota LandCruiser 76/78/79 Series 5" Snorkel (Pre-Facelift MY07-23) · Toyota LandCruiser 76/78/79 Series 5" Twin Snorkels (Pre-Facelift MY07-23).
Guide v1.1 · updated 29 Sep 2026 · LandCruiser 76/78/79 (pre-facelift) · All install guides